Omelette ux fines herbes
breakfast/brunch, fall, french cuisine, summer, vegetarian

Using Up Herb Plants: Omelette aux Fines Herbes (with basic recipe)

Omelette ux fines herbes
High cuisine, not a simple attempt to use things up before going out of town for Thanksgiving

            Every fall, I bring my potted herb plants in from outside to enjoy using them for a bit longer. It works well enough for a while, but eventually they start to suffer from the limited sunshine. Since most of them are annuals, the time comes to use up what I can before starting again when summer returns. Everything except the rosemary is either done or fading. To use up as much as possible, I made a French classic, omelette aux fines herbes.

            Fines herbes is a mix of parsley, chives, tarragon, and chervil, common in French cuisine. The first three are widely available in the US, but chervil might require a specialty spice store or the internet. Supposedly it tastes like a milder parsley with a bit of a licorice undertone, but I couldn’t taste much difference. To compensate for all the herbs except parsley being dried, I also added some minced scallions to brighten things up.

            For many French chefs, making a perfect omelet is one of the primary tests of skill. After following the basic directions on pages 107 – 108 of 1000 Foods to Eat Before You Die, mine turned out pretty well. The flavor is distinctly understated, but the freshness from the herbs was nice as fall turns to winter. The slight licorice flavor from either the tarragon or chervil is definitely there. Perhaps it just needs a little heat to release its flavor. Chefs disagree on how much browning, if any, is ideal. Personally, I like more browning, both for flavor and the fact that it helps the egg unstick itself from the pan.

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            For each omelet, I used three eggs, beaten together with salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of milk. The herb mix contained three large parsley sprigs, minced, one minced scallion, and a teaspoon each dried chives, tarragon, and chervil. Half of the herb mixture gets added into the eggs before cooking. After melting about a tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium heat, the egg mixture is added to cook.

            To make sure that none of the eggs end up runny, I like to tilt the pan and lift up the edges of the cooked portion, letting the uncooked egg flow underneath. After this, sprinkle the remaining herb mixture over the surface. When the top is almost set, fold the right and left thirds of the omelet over onto the center. If this doesn’t work and you end up with a half-moon shaped omelet, don’t worry about it, it will still taste good. Let the omelet cook for another minute, covering the pan if desired to help it set, then slide it onto a plate.

            To make this simple mix of eggs and herbs sound extra fancy, serve with pommes de terre frits, compote de pomme, fruits frais, café au lait, or any combination thereof. In English, these are fried potatoes, applesauce, fresh fruit, and coffee with milk. To make anything sound fancy, say it in French, even if you have to use a translation app.

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Flaeskeaeggekage - Danish bacon and egg pancake
breakfast/brunch, danish cuisine, food history, recipes

Danish Bacon-Egg Pancake (Flaeskeaeggekage)

Flaeskeaeggekage - Danish bacon-egg pancake whole
Just look at how pretty it is. And it tastes as good as it looks.

Information found in 1000 Foods to Eat Before You Die (pg. 347), recipe is my own

            Bacon and eggs have been combined for centuries, probably because they both cook quickly on the stove. Most likely, this is why they are often considered breakfast food. I’m not going to get up early enough to make eggs and bacon for breakfast, but some morning people might. It will taste just as good for brunch, lunch, or dinner.

            There are a number of recipes for this difficult-to-pronounce Danish recipe. Variations include the amount of milk to use and whether or not to dice the bacon. I went with Mimi Sheraton’s suggestion to leave the bacon strips whole and arrange them in a star pattern. Another unique touch is to use a bit of potato starch as a binder instead of the flour used in most of the online recipes. It gives the pancake a special, subtle flavor that makes it stand out from all the other recipes involving eggs and bacon.

            According to the internet, most Danish bacon is leaner than American bacon and is sold in cans. When using American bacon, it’s a good idea to pour off about half of the fat from the skillet after cooking it. The egg mixture cooks in the bacon fat, but it doesn’t need the full amount. This is particularly true if you’re cooking the whole package and not just the six slices needed for the recipe. You may as well and have some extra to munch on, since everyone nearby will be drawn to the smell.

Flaeskeaeggekage - Danish bacon-egg pancake wedge
Can’t you just smell the bacon through the screen?

            Traditionally, the pancake is flavored with white pepper, sprinkled with chives, and served with buttered rye bread. Depending on what you have, black pepper, green onions, and regular toast with butter and jam are other good options. Such an easy, comfort food dish like this shouldn’t require an extra trip to the store.

            To make it, I simply combined six eggs, a quarter cup 2% milk, a tablespoon potato starch, and a bit of salt and pepper to taste. The omelet/pancake cooks in the still-hot bacon fat over low heat until the bottom starts to brown and the top is almost set. Then add the bacon strips in a star pattern, sprinkle with chives or scallions, and cover the pan to help it set completely. Slice into wedges and serve with toast or rye bread. As a main course, each “pancake” serves two people.

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food history, french cuisine, recipes

Using Up the Wine: Oeufs en Meurette (eggs poached in red wine)

1000 Foods (pg. 106) for information, recipe is my own creation

            After making the beef burgundy, I had about a third of a bottle of the wine left over. Not wanting to waste it but not really wanting to drink it either (too dry), I chose to make another dish from the French region of Burgundy: oeufs en meurette. These are basically eggs poached in a mix of wine, beef broth, and aromatics, which is then reduced to form a sauce. The eggs are served with toast to soak up the sauce and runny yolks, and are often garnished with sauteed onions or mushrooms.

            Even though I don’t usually like poached eggs, this was really good. The egg yolks blended into the sauce once the eggs were cut, making their runniness less apparent. All the butter, to toast the bread, sauté the mushrooms, and make roux to thicken the sauce probably helped too. The leftover sauce was even better with scrambled eggs. As an extra garnish, I added some kale, which holds up next to the hot ingredients much better than lettuce.

Ingredients:

  • 4 pieces thick-cut bacon, cut into matchsticks across the grain
  • 1 shallot, peeled, crushed with a chef’s knife, and minced
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed with a chef’s knife, and minced
  • 1 cup red burgundy or other pinot noir (you don’t need an expensive bottle, mid or even medium-low priced is fine)
  • 2 bay leaves, broken in half
  • ½ teaspoon dried thyme or 1 ½ teaspoons fresh
  • Minced fresh parsley, if desired
  • 1 cup beef broth
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 tbsp softened butter, plus enough to coat skillet
  • 1 tbsp flour
  • 8 oz sliced mushrooms
  • 2 pieces thickly sliced white bread, such as Texas toast

            Directions:

  1. Brown the bacon over medium-low heat in a medium saucepan until enough fat has been rendered to coat the bottom. Add the shallots and cook until soft. Then add the garlic and cook until it takes on some color.
  2. Add the wine, bay leaves, and thyme to the saucepan and scrape the bottom with a rubber spatula. Add the broth and parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and bring to a simmer.
  3. Meanwhile, make a paste with a tablespoon each of butter and flour.
  4. Melt enough butter in the skillet to coat it, and brown the toast to the desired color over medium heat. Place each piece in a wide individual serving bowl.
  5. Add more butter to the skillet if needed along with the mushrooms. Salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, while you poach the eggs and reduce the sauce.
  6. Break the eggs into a bowl, and if strands of egg white in the sauce bother you, hold each in a fine-mesh strainer for a few seconds to let the loose part of the white drain.
  7. Carefully add the eggs to the wine and broth mixture, stirring gently. Poach just until the whites are firm, then remove them with a slotted spoon and place two over each piece of toast.
  8. Turn the heat up to medium, and add the butter and flour paste to the poaching liquid. Cook, stirring frequently, until the sauce is slightly thickened.
  9. Ladle sauce over each serving, adding mushrooms for garnish. If desired, you can also add some greens or parsley.

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middle eastern cuisine, recipes, vegetarian

Lent Friday Special: Shakshuka (eggs in tomato sauce)

1000 Foods (pg. 697) for information, recipe is my own creation

            Lent recently ended, along with its associated dietary restrictions. Fortunately for those of us inclined to follow Lent Friday fasting rules, eggs and dairy products have been permitted for the last few hundred years. Fish fries are always an option, but for an easy dinner at home that follows both the letter and spirit of Lent, it’s hard to beat eggs. (Or cheese, but that’s a topic for another post. Seriously, instead of fried fish sandwiches, fast food places should offer fried cheese as a meat alternative. I guarantee there’s a market for it.) They’re quick-cooking and versatile, perfect for an evening when you’re tired after the work week. An easy, quick-cooking egg recipe is the Middle Eastern dish shakshuka.

            Tomatoes aren’t just for Italian food. Once they were introduced to the Mediterranean, they were widely adopted across the Middle East and North Africa. The plants thrive in the abundant sunshine, as do sweet and hot peppers. One use for them is in shakshuka, a thick, spicy tomato sauce used to poach or scramble eggs. It’s often a breakfast dish in the Middle East, but also makes a great vegetarian lunch or dinner. The prettiest appearance comes from poaching the eggs whole, producing a mix of red, white, and yellow. Personally, I prefer to scramble the eggs and pour them into wells in the sauce. Either way, a sprinkle of cilantro brightens it up and adds even more color. If you happen to have the gene that makes cilantro taste like soap, I’m sure chopped parsley would be a good substitute. This should be served alongside some bread.

            Ingredients:

  • 1 – 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 onion, chopped
  • 1 green pepper, chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, smashed and minced
  • ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • ½ teaspoon cumin
  • 1 can (about 15 – 16 oz) crushed tomatoes (not tomato sauce)
  • 4 eggs
  • 2 tablespoons milk
  • 1 bunch cilantro (also called fresh coriander), chopped
  • Bread, for serving

            Directions:

  1. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat, then add the onions and peppers with a pinch of salt, sautéing until soft.
  2. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, and cumin, stirring for about a minute. Stir in the crushed tomatoes.
  3. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens.
  4. Meanwhile, beat the eggs with the milk and a pinch of salt.
  5. Make four “wells” in the sauce, then pour in the eggs, dividing evenly. If the wells overflow a bit, that’s fine. Cover the pan and cook until the eggs are set, about 5 – 8 minutes.
  6. Sprinkle with about half the cilantro, setting aside the remainder for anyone who wants extra. Serve with bread.

This quantity serves two people, but to feed more, just add another two eggs and one tablespoon milk per person. If serving more than four, double the sauce and use two skillets. And for more fun facts and recipes, make sure to subscribe for free.

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