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Looking Back at Summer in America: Corn on the Cob, Watermelon

Source: 1000 Foods (pgs. 549 – 550, 636 – 637)

            Corn on the cob is a classic taste of summer. Or is it? Outside of the US, and even in some parts of this country, it is uncommon. This interesting quirk of regional cuisine was brought up at a family reunion recently. Relatives from New York and Virginia were especially excited about the fresh corn on the cob because it is harder to come by there. We were even told that if you imagine the worst corn in Wisconsin, you’re also imagining the best corn in New York. I was surprised, but it does make sense. Sweet corn becomes starchy very quickly after being picked, so getting it to market as soon as possible is essential. With cities more sprawled together on the East Coast, there are fewer places to grow corn and those places are farther from the markets. This means less availability and longer transport times, with the sugar turning to starch all along the way.

            Meanwhile, one of the stereotypes about the Midwest is true. There really are cornfields everywhere. Though most of this is field corn destined to feed animals, particularly cows, sweet corn is widely grown. While there are big cities, they tend to be more spaced out and often have cornfields in between, making timely shipping feasible. Very good corn is available in supermarkets from late July through August, and farm stands sell corn picked only hours ago. Some will even peel it for you. Then you can go home, melt some butter while the corn cooks, and dig in. It does tend to be a bit messy, but that’s part of the fun. Enjoy it while the season lasts.

            Another particularly seasonal treat is watermelon. Originating in Southern Africa, it gradually made its way north, eventually reaching Europe and the Americas. Over the centuries, it was bred to be larger, sweeter, and more brightly colored. The reasons for its popularity are clear. It’s sweet, juicy, and generally refreshing in hot weather. Prices are fairly low during the summer. Before it is cut, the rind provides protection against spoilage, another benefit in the hot Southeast and Midwest before widespread refrigeration. As mentioned in a previous post, watermelon is one of the best healthy desserts out there. But like summer, watermelon season eventually comes to an end. The expensive, out-of-season melons just don’t compare. Come fall, you’re better off switching to apples.

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Summer in the South of France: Ratatouille, Cherry Clafoutis

Source: 1000 Foods (pgs. 124 – 125, 79 – 80)

            Ratatouille is a hilarious movie. It is also a delicious demonstration of Southern French history in a single dish. The garlic, onions, parsley, and olive oil were all available from the time Rome controlled the region, if not before. During the Middle Ages, dukes and counts in Southern France were as wealthy and powerful as the king in Paris, if not more so. Much of this wealth came from the area’s agricultural productivity, but trade was also important. Eggplants arrived via trade with the Arab world and became widespread around the Mediterranean. Basil also came from the East. The peppers, tomatoes, and zucchini came from the Americas before becoming traditional in Provence.

            Clafoutis is sort of like a cross between a cake and a custard. It begins with a batter similar to crepe batter to which fruit is added. Cherries are the most popular, but are not the only option. Unlike in cherry pie or black forest cake, sweet cherries are used. What’s most interesting about clafoutis is that traditionally, the cherries are unpitted to keep the red juice from running into and staining the cake. Supposedly the pits provide a bit of almond flavor due to compounds related to cyanide, which sounds scary but is in such small quantities that it’s not an issue. In fact, the quantities were so small that I couldn’t taste the almond flavor at all, but it wasn’t really necessary. The lightly sweet, soft crepe/custard with just a hint of vanilla was the perfect foil for the stronger flavor of the cherries. Not getting poisoned was nice too.

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