food history, sauce, summer

Chimichurri: Argentine Steak Sauce

Steak with chimichurri is a delicious summer treat

            Across central Argentina, grasslands called the Pampas cover a vast area. Ever since Spaniards arrived in the 16th Century with cattle, beef has been a major industry. The region even had its own cowboys, called gauchos. Naturally, Argentine cuisine has developed a number of excellent beef recipes over the last five centuries, but the most famous is actually a sauce that goes with the meat. It doesn’t even have to be paired with beef, though it usually is.

            Chimichurri belongs to an ancient tradition of green sauces made of chopped or ground herbs moistened with vinegar and/or oil. They were eaten in Ancient Rome, across Medieval Europe, and modern variations include pesto, salsa verde, and the North African chermoula. Chimichurri is based on parsley, cilantro, and garlic, combined with other herbs and often peppers or tomatoes. In the Spanish/Mediterranean tradition, the liquids are olive oil and vinegar.

            When Spaniards first reached the Americas, they struggled to adjust to the available food options. In particular, they missed wheat bread and wine. To remedy their homesickness, the Spanish and Portuguese introduced a variety of plants and animals, with varied success. The Pampas were perfect for grazing cattle, sheep, and horses. Salted beef was an essential provision for the long voyages of discovery and trade. To produce it, an entire gaucho or cowboy culture evolved.

            Grapevines grew well in other parts of Argentina, a huge boon for Spaniards used to wine and vinegar. This made Argentina the natural birthplace for beef with chimichurri, which took a surprisingly long time to become popular in the US. As far as I can tell, it’s only become trendy in the last decade or so, and is still uncommon on restaurant menus. Admittedly, I don’t eat out much and definitely not at fashionable restaurants, so maybe I’m mistaken. But “fancy” South American steak sauce is easier to make at home than excellent hashbrowns, so I’ll stick to diners and making my own chimichurri at a fraction of the cost.

            Summer (or the hot days of early fall) is grilling and fresh herb season, making grilled steak with chimichurri a nice hot weather treat. In 1000 Foods to Eat Before You Die, Mimi Sheraton provides a recipe, which I adjusted to my taste. The essential ingredients for a bright, verdant flavor are cilantro, parsley, garlic, vinegar, and oil. Beyond that, some people include oregano, thyme, bay leaves, sweet and/or hot red pepper, or tomatoes. My recipe just uses oregano for depth and hot pepper flakes for a bit of kick. For the right texture the ingredients should be finely minced together. If using a food processor, watch carefully while pushing the pulse button. You want visible pieces of herbs, not a puree.

            Ingredients:

  • 1 bunch cilantro
  • 1 bunch Italian or flat-leaf parsley
  • Leaves from 2 sprigs oregano
  • ¼ yellow onion
  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed with the side of a knife
  • Pinch red pepper flakes
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • ½ cup (8 tablespoons) olive oil
  • Salt

            Directions:

  1. Coarsely chop the cilantro, parsley, oregano, onion, and garlic.
  2. Combine the herbs, onion, garlic, and red pepper flakes on the cutting board. Mince together.
  3. Place the herb mixture in a bowl, add the vinegar, olive oil, and a pinch of salt, and stir.
  4. Let the chimichurri rest at room temperature for at least an hour.
  5. Serve with beef, another protein, potatoes, or eggs. Bring any leftovers to room temperature before enjoying.

            Any leftovers are especially good with scrambled eggs. Chimichurri keeps well for several days. The herbs will eventually lose their color due to the acid in the vinegar, but this will not affect the taste. A similar meat, poultry, vegetable, or anything sauce is the North African chermoula, which I will be making soon. To get this and other recipes sent straight to your inbox, make sure to subscribe.

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